Venice: Piazza San Marco

Piazza San Marco is the big tourist area in Venice. It is where the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) and Basilica di San Marco are among other photogenic spots. It is also the spot that is always photographed when Venice floods. They have the parts for the platforms for people to walk on placed strategically around Venice for when acqua alta arrives. The basilica is one of the lowest parts of Venice, and some tiny amount of water was present around the basilica when I was there. [The flooding essentially comes from below the buildings. It does not come from shores exactly.] I was able to wander around the area on two different days, which is why differing weather conditioning can be seen in the photos below.

Palazzo Ducale as seen from near the water
Palazzo Ducale
Palazzo Ducale, in the afternoon, the light hits it just right to cause the lovely shadows and light from the cross-shaped openings.
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) that connects the Palazzo Ducale and the prison. So named as the bridge was how a prisoner entered the prison after judgement.
Looking toward Piazza San Marco with Saint Mark and Saint Theodore Columns in foreground
Saint Mark and Saint Theodore Columns (looking toward water)
Platform parts in the piazza in case of acqua alta
A small amount of acqua alta forming around the basilica. It later subsided.
Basilica San Marco from side near Palazzo Ducale
Basilica San Marco
Basilica San Marco, front side from Piazza San Marco
Procuratie Vecchie
Campanile di San Marco
Torre dell’Orologio
Woman dressed up for carnival. (I think it is only for carnival.) The were nicely posing for photos and didn’t seem to be taking tips. Nice change from in New York where people dress up in bad super hero and puppet characters for tips.

Venice: Gondolas

Today in Venice was Gondola Day. We started the day by going to a place where they make gondolas, restore old ones, and do maintenance on them. Then we went to a shop where they make certain pieces for the gondolas. We followed it up with a gondola ride through some canal with musicians.

First, we went to Squero Tramontin (Domenico Tramontin e Figli) where they make new gondolas, restore old ones, and do maintenance on currently used ones. The company is currently owned by two sisters, who inherited it from their father. It has been a family business for five generations, since 1884. Elena Tramontin explained to us how they make a gondola and the history of them. Originally gondolas were used for everything in Venice including police, ambulance, etc. They were also originally operated by two gondoliers, but the shape was changed so that one gondolier can operate it. All gondolas are completely flat bottom, and in fact all boats that operate in Venice’s lagoon are flat bottom. The gondolas only need 10 cm of water depth. They are made of mahogany, cherry, and oak. The wood is dried naturally and needs about a year too dry. The wood is bent with water and fire. They are coated with six coats of paint, and finished with 24 carat gold leaf accents. It takes about five to six months to complete one. The government decreed that all gondolas be black centuries ago. The edging was brass, but now steel is used. The counterweight at the front is iron and has symbolic meaning (see photo below). The gondolas are built to last 30 years, but they need maintenance every 50 days or so to remove barnacles and such. However, in the shop when we visited were much older gondolas.

Domenico Tramontin e Figli, one of two squeros where they make gondolas completely by hand.
A 70 year old gondola in the squero being rehabbed.
Tools in the shop
A 60 year old gondola in for maintenance
The forcula is what the oar is placed against, and the shape of the forcula allows the gondolier to “change gears” including stopping, starting, going fast, reverse.
The counterweight at the front of the gondola. Otherwise known as the fero de prora. The shape has symbolic meaning. The round top represents the Doge’s hat (the Doge was the ruler of the Republic of Venice). The curve under the Doge’s hat is the Rialto Bridge. The six straight pieces to the front represent the six areas of Venice: San Marco, San Polo, Santa Croce, Castello, Dorsoduro, and Cannaregio. The piece that sticks out opposite the six represents the separate island from the main part of Venice, Giudecca. The shape of the piece from the Doge’s hat to the end represents the shape of Canal Grande.

After visiting the squero, we then visited an artisan who makes some of the special wooden pieces for the gondola including the all important forcula. They are made by hand. He now sells more of them around the world as art pieces than as their historical use in gondolas. He has another shop on the mainland, where once he acquires wood, he cuts it into smaller pieces and allows it to dry naturally. Each forcula is built specific to the customer, based on customer height and such. The pieces are finished with oil. The bottom part of the forcula is finished last once the gondola is built, so that is fits securely into the gondola.

Oars hang on the walls.
He demostrares how he outlines the shape.
All pieces are carved by hand.
A finished forcula.

We then went for a gondola ride, and I started paying attention to how it was operated. The gondola ride was quite nice and relaxing.

The gondolier is the oar in the forcula to reverse the gondola and change direction..
Oar in the normal position to go forward.

A few final notes. There are 433 licenses for gondoliers, and only one is held by a woman. There is a waiting list to get one. We were told there are about 500 gondolas working now, which numerically doesn’t add up. We were told there are extra for loaners during maintenance. However, since we were told they are made specific to the gondolier, I am not sure how loaners work.

Gondolas lined up near San Marco waiting for riders.
Gondoliers in traditional dress near Piazzo San Marco waiting for customers.

Venice

Today was my first full day in Venice for this trip. The day started with a walking tour by a local guide, who lives in Venice. We wondered through streets that I would have gotten completely lost in by myself. The guide pointed out not just how confusing the streets were in terms of layout, but also how they were named so unhelpfully. There are many streets who are named “field by the church” or “way to the sacristy”, but the streets never clarify which church they are near. The afternoon included a glass making demonstration and a walking tour near and including the Jewish ghetto. The original ghetto is in Venice. According to our guide the name comes from “ghèto“, which means foundry in Venetian, because the ghetto was founded near a foundry because when they decided to segregate the Jewish people in the 1500s, they forced them to live near land no one wanted live by. The tour that included the history of the ghetto, was perhaps the most fascinating part of today.

Another small church in Venice
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, now a museum, the spiral staircase used to be part of a family’s house. The family made money in the edible snail industry, so the spiral staircase is supposed to resemble the spiral in a snail’s shell.
Crossing yet another canal
Teatro la Fenice, Phoenix Theater
Ca’ d’ Oro on the Canal Grande
Walking along the main street which connects the train station and Piazzo San Marco
Entrance to the Jewish ghetto
The Jewish ghetto

Venice

I arrived in Venice, Italy for the start of my vacation in Italy and Croatia. After my plane landed at Marco Polo Venice airport, we were taken by van to essentially the other side fo the airport by the tour group with which we are traveling. From there, we boarded a small boat that is one of many that operate as water taxis. The boat took us directly to our hotel. Not a bad way to travel.

I am completely jet-lagged, but I walked around a bit to try to stay awake and get more tired, so I can get a really good night’s sleep tonight. I once read that you have not really been to Venice, until you have gotten lost there. I did not in fact get lost today, but there were a couple of times where I could have easily gotten lost. Venice is a series of twisting, narrow and wide, alleys and streets that intersect constantly in non-uniform manners. However, it is lovely here and so unique.

Church along the Canal Grande
Houses with pretty window boxes line small canals
Doorway that opens to a canal
Church along Canal Grande
Houses line a small canal
Church in a small square
Canal Grande

Virginia State Capitol

I came to Richmond to tour the Virginia state capitol. I took the tour today, and the tour was so bad that as a resident of Virginia, I was actually embarrassed by it. First, the tour lasted a little over an hour, and well beyond half of it was history of the state, not of the actual capitol (with an “o” meaning the building itself). I find it hard to believe that I am the only person who when going for a tour of a capitol or some other building wants a tour of the building and the history of the building, not of the state or people who used to live there. Second, the tour was completely whitewashed. My tour guide did not say the word “slave” once. In her entire hour long recitation of the history of the colony and state of Virginia, she did not think it important to mention slavery once. If she had barely talked about the history of Virginia, I might be more forgiving of that huge gap. Also, I am going to make an educated guess that slaves were involved in building the capitol.

Third, probably because she spent so much time talking about the history of Virginia, she barely had time to talk about the details of the building. She evidently doesn’t show either of the House or Senate chambers, unless the group wants to see one. We all wanted to see one, so she took us to the House chambers. After that I asked if we could see the Senate, she seemed surprise that someone would want to see both. Is it really that surprising that someone who goes on a tour of a state capitol would want to see both chambers, which generally are the most important rooms in the entire building? She said the two chambers look the same, but possibly because others wanted to see it also, she took us to the Senate chamber also. They are not the same. They are very similar, but there are specific differences. The House has green seats and curtains. The Senate has red seats and curtains. I have visited enough state capitols to make an educated guess that that is based on the British Parliament lower and upper house. [See the California State Capitol and Colorado State Capitol among others.] However I have to guess because the tour guide didn’t bother to point it out. Considering she said they are exactly the same, perhaps she did not even realize it. Further, when we were in the Senate chamber, I asked her about some symbol on the ceiling [see below photo] that I had also noticed in the House. She did at least partially explain what it was, but considering how capitols are generally full of symbolism, I found it bizarre that she didn’t talk about it to initially. Also, she never mentioned that there is place near the stair landing a floor above where we were, where they have clear plastic covering a portion of the interior of the building [see photo below]. Even if she was not going to take us there, she could have mentioned it as something we might want to go see. I discovered it by accident while wandering around after the official tour.

Fourth, perhaps this is a dumb complaint, but one of the reasons I take guided tours of the capitols is because generally the tour guides are fantastic, knowledgable, and can tell you all these details you can’t get by just wandering around. In the rotunda, to the side of the dome, the state seal is painted on the ceiling. Only it is not the official seal. The state seal of Virginia, which among other places is on the flag not to mention numerous places in the capitol, features the goddess Virtue, and one of her breasts, including the nipple is showing. The seal on ceiling has both of Virtue’s breasts covered. I noticed this immediately that it looked wrong. I asked the guide during the tour if that painted version was because of the former Attorney General Cuccinelli who made national news when he changed the seal to cover up Virtue’s breast on things in his office. She said no that is the official seal. After the tour, I showed her an up close photo to point out the difference, and I am not sure she even realized that the painted version differs from the version on the flag and on the floor next to the tour guide desk. She had no explanation for the difference and didn’t seem to be interested in a visitor pointing out to her there is a difference. She said that painting has been there for years. So maybe that version has nothing to do with a recent politician, but why is it different? I am very curious. Also of note, when I told to her after, there was a security guard right there, and he was really interested and wanted to look at my photo. Thus at least one other person finds it interesting that the painted seal is different. I am curious about how old the rotunda painting is and the history of the version of the seal. Internet searches are only giving me the version on the flag.

My complaints are not just about this particular guide. I am quite frankly dumbfounded that a normal tour does not allow a visitor to see both chambers. You can’t get into the chambers at all without a guide. In most of the state capitols I have been to so far, you can just wander in to at least the viewing gallery. In Virginia, that is not possible. As a resident of Virginia this strikes me as wrong. It is supposed to be the people’s house, so let the people see it.

The exterior of the Virginia state capitol. The middle portion is the original version dating back to 1788 and designed by Thomas Jefferson. The two side wings date back to 1906 and hold the two chambers.
The 2007 extension created an underground approach to the capitol. In the photo above is the underground walkway as it approaches the original building. The wall on the right with the windows is the original building.
The original model of the capitol. They painted the model when they painted the building.
The rotunda.
The rotunda features a statue of George Washington.
The dome which is not visible from the exterior.
The Virginia state seal as painted on the ceiling in the rotunda to the side of the dome. Notice Virtue’s breasts are both covered, unlike the version on the flag and seemingly everywhere else.
The House chambers.
The Senate chambers.
The Senate chambers. The House chambers has a similar ceiling.
Painting on the Senate ceiling. The tour guide said the center is a VA for Virginia. I think she said the circle are tobacco leaves.
Near the stairwell on the floor to the chambers’ viewing galleries (it is on both sides), they have part of the wooden frame from the original east and west entrance to the rotunda viewable. The sign says they were uncovered during the 2004-2007 restoration.

Richmond Canal Walk

I am continuing my quest to see all the state capitols. I am in Richmond this weekend to see the Virginia state capitol. However, today, I just wandered around. I spent most of the day walking along and near the Richmond canal walk. Richmond has a couple of disjointed canal that were originally part of a large system so that ships could avoid the James River rapids. The canal walk is lovely. The original building of the canal and the restoration of it are impressive engineering projects. They have restored much of the system, and you can even take a boat ride along part of it. [I did, and some of those photos are included.] Railroads and then highways were built alongside and on top of parts of the canal system. My tour guide on the boat ride noted that there is one part where you can see 18th century (the canal), 19th century (the railroad), and 20th century (the highway) transportation systems all in a single frame. I thought that was an interesting and insightful observation. The canal also is both inside and outside the Richmond flood wall, which is another impressive piece of engineering. A canal was built to bypass the James River rapids, and a wall was built to protect against James River floods.

Entrance to the first (most downstream) lock in the canal system.
The first (most downstream) lock in the system. The lock is full and beyond is the James River. The area is now a park.
A pool just beyond the first lock, now part of a park
Old railroad bridge over canal
“The Lowline” is hike and bike trail along an elevated railroad next to the canal.
“The Lowline” is hike and bike trail along an elevated railroad next to the canal.
Part of the canal is inside the Richmond flood wall, which has a gate seen here for boats to pass in and out of the flood wall.
The canal is below railroads and highways in parts.
The turning basin where you can catch a boat ride, see to the left.
Pedestrian walks along the canal. Much of the canal is only a couple of feet deep.
Abandoned buildings are alongside the canal. This one has numerous original murals.
Canal walk near Brown’s Island.

Harrisburg

I came to Harrisburg to see the Pennsylvania State Capitol, but while I am here, I spent some time exploring. Harrisburg is one of those old cities where downtown is a mix of historic and modern buildings. Some of the historic buildings have been preserved; some need some preservation. It is a mostly walkable city though. There is a nice riverwalk, at least part of it is close to the water level next to the levee, and another parallel part of it is on top the levee.

One place that I really enjoyed walking to is City Island, which can be accessed on foot by the Walnut Street Bridge, a pedestrian and bicycle only bridge, that connects downtown to the island in the Susquehanna River. From City Island, I took a ride on the Pride of the Susquehanna riverboat that takes a short cruise up the river. By the time the river gets to Harrisburg, it is about a mile wide, but it averages only about 3.5 feet deep. On the cruise, I saw some people standing in the middle of the river, which only went to their waist, next to their pontoon boat.

Mansion across from the river
Walnut Street bridge
View of the state capitol and downtown from City Island
Market Street Bridge with more southern bridges in the background
McCormick Riverfront Library, Founded in 1889 as The Harrisburg Public Library, now part of the Dauphin County Library System
Storm approaching the Susquehanna River from the west
Riverfront buildings/houses
Churches line State Street, a block from the Capitol
View from Front Street up State Street
Susquehanna River with numerous bridges to the left, the first one is the Walnut Street Bridge

Pennsylvania State Capitol

I am continuing on my quest to see all the state capitols, and today was the Pennsylvania State Capitol in Harrisburg. It is gorgeous. Harrisburg is the third city to serve as the capital, and the current capitol is the third building in Harrisburg to serve that purpose. So I guess they had several chances to get it right. When the current building was dedicated, President Theodore Roosevelt said it was”the handsomest building” he ever saw. This capitol has everything: stained glass, paintings every where, tile, columns, and gold leaf galore. The rotunda was inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City, and the steps and balconies with the rotunda were inspired by the Paris Opera House, so that says a lot about the design.

Front or west entrance to the capitol
View of the capitol from the east or rear entrance. The east wing is relatively new.
Ceiling of the rotunda
The sides of the rotunda are filled with paintings. The quote below the paintings is a mosaic.
Steps and balconies in the rotunda
The floor of the rotunda and halls off of it are tile with many mosaics. My favorite is this happy bat.
Senate chamber
Top of walls with stained glass in the Senate chamber.
House of Representatives chamber
Wall of House of Representatives
Supreme Court chamber
Painting in the Supreme Court chamber. It says “Love, Law, and Wisdom”.
Stained glass ceiling of the Supreme Court chamber
Governor’s reception room
Hallway from the rotunda to the Senate chamber
Hallway from the House of Representatives to the rotunda

Bay Lower Subway Station

Another site I visited with Doors Open Toronto was an abandoned subway station. When the Bay Subway Station was built, there was an upper and lower level. According to the Doors Open Toronto website “When Line 2 officially opened in 1966, Bay Lower was in full use. Alternate trains used the Wye connection, which allowed customers to travel from Line 1 to Line 2 without changing trains. The TTC tested this system for six months and also tested the two separate subway lines for six months. Following testing, the TTC decided that two trains worked best and Bay Lower was closed.” If like me, you do not live in Toronto, that means very little or nothing. Having studied the Toronto subway map for a little bit of time, I think I now understands what it means, but to be perfectly honest, it sounds like it was a dumb idea from the start. Yes, yes, hindsight is 20/20, but it just seems overly complicated, and I know how long it took me just to understand New York City’s local versus express lines, so this seems like it might have made things easier for some but confused the heck out of others. It also sounds like something that carried not insignificant risks for train operation and train traffic control.

The lower level was not used for very long, but it has been used ever since by TTC for testing and training. It has also been used by the television and movie industry quite a bit for shooting scenes. The signs they had displayed seem to indicate that it has been a stand in for many U.S. city subway lines. Ever since I visited the lower level, I have been trying to think how many U.S. cities actually have a subway, as in trains that run underground. There are not that many, and furthermore, not many look like this station. Then again, the movie industry may not always care about things like that. But I digress.

In any event, it was kind of neat to walk around the platform. They had a train on either track with all doors open, so you could walk around the trains. They also let people visit the conductor’s seat/booth/area/I don’t what it is called. Today I learned, when given the opportunity to visit this area, people both young and old, really, really, really like to honk the horn. How the employees watching everything were not developing headaches from the horns constantly going off in the confined station where the noise really bounces around, I have no idea.

One final observation. I am rather fascinated by Toronto’s subway trains because the individual cars are all connected into one true train where you can walk very easily between all the cars. I don’t how many other systems have cars like this, but I was fascinated by it. I am most familiar with the Washington, D.C. and New York City subway systems where walking between cars requires going outside and is rather frowned upon or difficult. It would seem likely this would make it rather difficult for trains to be taken apart should only one or two cars need service, but I am not sure how often cars are taken apart and reconfigured on other systems where visually at least, it would appear to be easier.

Bay Lower Subway Station
One of the trains at the Bay Lower Subway Station. You can easily walk the entire length of the train.
One of the trains at the Bay Lower Subway Station. In the foreground is where two cars are joined, and you can walk in between.
View from the end of the Bay Lower Subway Station platform into the tunnel.

Sea of Cortez Cetaceans

First off, the reason why I am titling this post cetaceans, is that I can’t remember if they naturalists on the ship decided these were whales or dolphins. While on my ill-fated trip to Baja California, the ship passed cetaceans several times, and several times the cetaceans came to ride our bow wave. It was so fun to see them. I decided to post some of the better photos that I took. If anyone can identify which specific cetaceans these are, I will happily update my post. Also, in some of the up-close photos of them riding the ship’s bow wave, remora fish stuck onto the cetaceans are visible.

Pod of cetaceans

Pod of cetaceans

Pod of cetaceans

Pod of cetaceans

Pod of cetaceans

Cetaceans riding the bow wave

Cetaceans riding the bow wave

Cetaceans riding the bow wave with visible remora fish

Cetaceans riding the bow wave with visible remora fish

Cetaceans riding the bow wave