Tracy Arm Fjord

During my first full day in Juneau, I took a day cruise to Tracy Arm to see the fjord and glaciers. We saw two glaciers, Sawyer Glacier and South Sawyer Glacier, which really used to be the same glacier. Along the way to see the glaciers, we traveled through the beautiful Tracy Arm Fjord. The fjord has numerous former glacier valleys, river valleys, and water falls. The fjord has numerous icebergs, generally rather small icebergs, that have broken off the glaciers. Many of the larger icebergs serve as resting places for harbor seals. We also were lucky enough to see a black bear eating mollusks or something on the shore. Later, while headed back to Juneau, there were Steller sea lions and more harbor seals on the Midway Islands.

Iceberg

Tracy Arm fjord

Sawyer Glacier

Up close view of Sawyer Glacier

South Sawyer Glacier

South Sawyer Glacier

Up close view of South Sawyer Glacier

Harbor seal

Harbor seals

Black bear

Steller sea lions

Sitka, Alaska

The Alaska state ferry route between Ketchikan and Juneau stops in Sitka for a couple of hours. A very wise company in Sitka runs a shuttle (i.e. a school bus) to take ferry passengers to downtown Sitka from the ferry terminal and then back again, as it is several miles. That gave us about an hour and a half in downtown Sitka. I would have loved to have a day there. The Sitka National Historical Park has some nice trails that I only had about 15 minutes to explore. There are also a couple of historic buildings I would have loved to go in, and I discovered a couple of really cute shops. When I was planning this trip, Sitka was a place I wanted to stay overnight, but alas, there is just so much to see and so little time.

Near Sitka National Historical Park

Near Sitka National Historical Park, a view of Mt Edgecumbe and downtown Sitka

Totem pole in Sitka National Historical Park

St. Michael’s Orthodox Cathedral

St Peter’s By the Sea Episcopal Church

Sitka Hotel in downtown Sitka

Alaska State Ferry: Ketchikan to Juneau

I had a lovely stay in Ketchikan, but it was time for the next leg of my trip, which was taking the Alaska state ferry to Juneau. This trip stopped at several cities before we arrived in Juneau. There was barely time to step off the ship if desired in the cities, except for Sitka, which allowed us about an hour and half in downtown Sitka. [More on that in next blog post.] The ferry route to Juneau was gorgeous, and it went through the amazingly gorgeous and awesome Wrangell Narrows. The ferry is about the biggest ship that can go through the narrows, so that is a bit of a bonus compared to the huge cruise ships.

Inside passage near Ketchikan

Wrangell

Wrangell Narrows

Wrangell Narrows

Wrangell Narrows

Wrangell Narrows (with an out of focus bald eagle flying across the shot on the left)

Petersburg

Near Petersburg

Mt Edgecumbe, near Sitka

Juneau

Totem Bight State Historical Park

I visited Totem Bight State Historical Park in Ketchikan today. It contains numerous totem poles, some of which are reproductions and some of which are inspired by older totem poles. Because they are newer, they are still colorful, which helps in understand both their meaning and also what the original poles looked like. There is also a gorgeous clan house, which you can go in. The park also features a short but nice walk through the temperature rainforest and also a beach.

Clan House

Land Otter Pole

Sea Monster Pole

Kaats’ Bear Wife

Kadjuk Bird Pole

Thunderbird and Whale

Trail

Beach area

Ketchikan hiking

Ketchikan has lots of hiking trails, and many of them are close to the town. We went hiking on the Rainbird trail this afternoon. Ketchikan is located in a temperate rainforest, and the Rainbird trail goes through that temperate rainforest ecosystem right to the side of the town. The trail is located in an area that was last logged over 50 years ago, so it does not have the old growth trees, but it is pretty none the less. The northern trailhead warns that the trail is not maintained, and they are not kidding. We lost the trail a couple of times. The southern half of the trail is maintained and is much easier to hike.

Ferns and moss growing on a fallen tree stump

Moss and ferns growing near a stream

New tree growng on top of a fallen tree

Cedar trees and ferns everywhere

Trail through the forest

At the south end of the trail, there are spectacular lookouts

Moss growing on a fallen tree

Berries

Wild flowers

Ketchikan, Alaska

Ketchikan is a great town to wander around. A must see is of course Creek Street, which is built right on Ketchikan Creek, for what I am sure were sensible reasons when the town was first founded. Now while it is very photogenic, it also looks like an engineering challenge. Creek Street is right where Ketchikan Creek empties into the sea, so the tidal influence is visible. Right before Ketchikan Creek enters the Creek Street area, the creek is white water going over rocks, but then just a little further back, it is a calmer, mountain creek. Hence it is an interesting walk to follow the creek a bit. The rest of downtown is filled with what for the most part seem to be original buildings from when the town was expanding or buildings built to resemble old buildings. The dock area is huge, and there appear to be more boats than cars in the downtown area.

Creek Street, built along Ketchikan Creek; the mint green building on the far right is Dolly’s House, “where both men and salmon came upstream to spawn”

Creek Street

Ketchikan Creek right before it gets to Creek Street

Ketchikan Creek is more an alluvial stream just a short distance before Creek Street

Downtown sign: Welcome to Alaska’s 1st City, Ketchikan, The Salmon Capital of the World

Downtown Ketchikan where most of the buildings seem to be original

Ketchikan wharf, in the middle is the Potlatch, a famous and popular with the locals bar

Ketchikan’s very crowded docks

Totems at the Totem Heritage Center

Snorkeling in Alaska

While planning for my vacation in Alaska, I learned that there is a company, appropriately named Snorkel Alaska, that leads snorkeling tours near Ketchikan. If there is a way for me to get into the water, especially if it means seeing some cool wildlife, I am there. This morning I went on my guided tour. They supplied all the equipment including a wetsuit, hood, gloves, etc. Perhaps maybe my toes got cold, but that was it. The wetsuit did its job. I got to snorkel around for over an hour seeing sea urchins, sea stars, fish, sea cucumbers, sea weed, and so much more. It was one of the best snorkeling tours I have taken. I love snorkeling in warm water and seeing coral, but this cold water provided so much to see.

Lots of sea grass and kelp

Crab

Sea urchins and sea cucumbers

Sea urchin

Completely out of focus photo of a nudibranch. I was so excited to see a nudibranch I am sharing the out of focus photo anyway.

Sea star

Sea urchins

Sea star

Sea star and tube worms

Sea stars

Chiton

Alaska State Ferry: Bellingham to Ketchikan

I have started a three week vacation in Alaska, which will involve planes, trains, ships, buses, cars, and perhaps a helicopter and raft. Thirty years ago or so, I cruised the inside passage with my family, but this time I wanted a little more time to see the southeast area and interior. Thus, the cruising will take place on the Alaska State Ferry. I took the ferry from Bellingham, Washington to Ketchikan, Alaska, which is about 38 hours or so of travel. The ferry cruises the inside passage. There was a map in the cafe that shows the route, and in two different places, the route can go either in the open ocean or the inside passage. It is not clear why one is chosen over the other, and the crew (that interacted with the passengers) didn’t even seem to know, but presumably the navigation crew knew. In any event, our route was entirely the inside passage, and a lovely route it was. It was a nice way to travel. I spent the entire time reading and taking photos along the way. Below are some photos I took along the route. Note that basically all of these photos are of British Columbia, Canada and those of the water we passed through.

View from a ship of sea and mountains View from a ship of sea and mountains View from a ship of sea and mountains View from a ship of sea and mountains View from a ship of sea and mountains A small waterfall View from a ship of sea and mountains View from a ship of sea and mountains

Alaska State Ferry: MV Kennicott

Thirty years or so ago, I took a cruise to Alaska starting in Vancouver and ending in Whittier through the inside passage. I wanted the cruise portion of that trip again, that is, the part where the boat takes you through the inside passage. However, I wanted more time in some of the cities to explore. The solution I came up with was to take the Alaska Marine Highway System, i.e. the Alaska State Ferry to a couple of cities then because the schedule is a bit infrequent for parts of the trip, to fly for a portion of the trip.

The ferry goes as far south as Bellingham, Washington. I flew to Seattle and then took a bus to Bellingham. There is an Amtrak train and also a bus that drops you off about a block or so from the ferry. Then after a lovely lunch in Bellingham, I boarded the ferry, in this case the MV Kennicott. We reserved a four berth cabin. There are only two of us traveling, but the two berth cabin does not have a private bathroom. We splurged for the four berth for the private bathroom and extra room. The room is rather small, unsurprisingly. It is rather spartan really. Cruise ship cabins are small, but generally they are well designed with lots of drawers, shelves, and other areas to unpack things. The ferry was not designed for that. The ferry cabin was designed for you to sleep but not really for you to place your luggage anywhere.

A ship's cabin with bunk beds

Our four berth cabin, made up for two people

We didn’t spend that much time during the day in the cabin though. They have a cafeteria for meals, but you can also bring your own food and use their microwave or their hot water. The food is ok, but if you have any dietary issues, you need to bring your own food. There is not that much choice with the food.

Also, there are a couple of sitting areas, including the popular forward observation seating area. The front observation seating area is set up like a theater, so you can relax and see where the ship is going.

Seats facing the front window of a ship

The front observation area where many passengers spend the day

There are also several outside decks where passages can go. Many people choose not to pay extra for a cabin and camp on the ship. There were camping tents set up in on several of the wider outside decks. Some people had rather fancy set ups for their tents.

A tent set up on an outside deck of a ship

One of the upper, outside side decks where people camp

There was also a large enclosed solarium where people camped. The area was quite warm, so people might be able to camp there without an actual tent.

Person walking down an inside passageway on ship

The solarium where people camp

People’s camping areas in some cases were involved. One had an entry rug. One hung a hammock between poles. There were clearly experienced campers on the ferry.

A camping tent with rugs outside it

Someone’s tent set up in the solarium including rugs

The ferry is definitely not luxury travel. However the route is wonderful and allow you to cruise the inside passage without having to be tied to a cruise ship’s schedule of one day per port.

Shenandoah Flowers and Insects

Last weekend I went to Shenandoah National Park to take photos of Comet NEOWISE, which of course, can only be seen at night. During the day I did some hiking, driving, and took lots of photos. Across from the northern visitor’s center, there is a small field that while I was there was filled with wildflowers, especially milkweed, bee balm, and thistle, and consequently also flying insects visiting those wildflowers. I spent a great deal of time taking photos of the flowers and the insects visiting them, one of my favorite activities. I am not completely positive about the identity, so comments with any needed corrections are welcome.

Field of wildflowers across from visitor’s center
Red Milkweed Beetle
Milkweed with bee
Milkweed with bee
Bee balm
Eastern tiger swallowtail
Eastern tiger swallowtail
Hummingbird Clearwing
Hummingbird Clearwing
Thistle with bee
Sunset over the Shenandoah Valley from Skyline Drive