We arrived in Anchorage a few days ago, and yesterday we took a day trip to Seward to take a cruise to Kenai Fjords. To get to Seward, we took Alaska Railroad’s Coastal Classic Train from Anchorage. The route was gorgeous. We traveled along the coast of Turnagain Arm before cutting across through glacial valleys where the Kenai Peninsula connects to the main part of Alaska. We traveled along the Placer River including through several tunnels before then traveling along the Trail River. The trip was worth the train ride alone, even if we had nothing to do in Seward. Along the way we also spotted sheep, moose, and lots and lots of birds.
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Juneau, Alaska
I have been in Juneau for several days now, and I have had a chance to walk around historic and not completely historic downtown quite a bit. Juneau reminds me of many older cities where they still have some of the historic buildings, which in many cases have been restored and repurposed, and they have new buildings mixed in with the old ones. There is a Main Street, but the main street seems to be more Franklin Street, although with so many shops closed because of lack of cruises, downtown is slightly not normal. However because there are no cruise ships, Juneau is easy and pleasant to walk around, as in not crowded, and you can actually stand on the docks and look across the water to Douglas Island. Near downtown, Juneau has a seawalk, which is nice walk to view the water and tidal flats. Ravens are everywhere, but bald eagles are not as easily sighted.
Mendenhall Glacier Recreation Area
We spent the say at Mendenhall Glacier Recreation Area, which has lots of hiking trails to see the area. Some of the trails are to provide good views of the glacier, some are for hiking in the woods, and some are few viewing the salmon and the bears when the salmon are spawning. There salmon were not here yet, but we got really lucky and saw a momma bear and her two cubs. The visitor’s center has photos and a film that shows just how much the glacier has retreated. One of the trails we hiked on also has markers showing where the ice used to be, and the retreat of the ice is incredible. The area is lovely, and one thing I liked was how basically anything that was not moving was covered in lichen and moss.
Gold Creek Flume Trail
The rain stopped for just a little bit this afternoon, so we went hiking on the Gold Creek Flume Trail, which is close to downtown Juneau. As far as I can tell, the entire trail is on top of a flume that takes water from the Gold Creek to a hydroelectric plant. With the exception of a small segment where a rock slide seems to be on top of the flume, it is a really easy trail to walk on, as you are on wooden planks. It is a nice hike through the woods with views of Gold Creek below and the mountains above. The western end is where the flume heads down the mountain. The eastern end seems to be where the flume separates from Gold Creek.
Alaska State Capitol
With this Alaska trip, I was able to accomplish one of the more difficult tasks in my quest to see all 50 state capitols, as Juneau is not the easiest capital to travel to. I also lucked out because it only opened less than a week ago before which it was closed because of COVID. The Alaska State Capitol is one of the, or perhaps the, least fancy state capitols. The building was formerly a courthouse, and then they turned it into the capitol. There is no dome or other fancy halls. It is an office building. It is lucky for the state, in a way, that they have so few residents because the senate and house chambers are small and used to be courtrooms. There are also quite a few old photos and lots of Alaska Native art, which are quite nice to see.
Tracy Arm Fjord
During my first full day in Juneau, I took a day cruise to Tracy Arm to see the fjord and glaciers. We saw two glaciers, Sawyer Glacier and South Sawyer Glacier, which really used to be the same glacier. Along the way to see the glaciers, we traveled through the beautiful Tracy Arm Fjord. The fjord has numerous former glacier valleys, river valleys, and water falls. The fjord has numerous icebergs, generally rather small icebergs, that have broken off the glaciers. Many of the larger icebergs serve as resting places for harbor seals. We also were lucky enough to see a black bear eating mollusks or something on the shore. Later, while headed back to Juneau, there were Steller sea lions and more harbor seals on the Midway Islands.
Sitka, Alaska
The Alaska state ferry route between Ketchikan and Juneau stops in Sitka for a couple of hours. A very wise company in Sitka runs a shuttle (i.e. a school bus) to take ferry passengers to downtown Sitka from the ferry terminal and then back again, as it is several miles. That gave us about an hour and a half in downtown Sitka. I would have loved to have a day there. The Sitka National Historical Park has some nice trails that I only had about 15 minutes to explore. There are also a couple of historic buildings I would have loved to go in, and I discovered a couple of really cute shops. When I was planning this trip, Sitka was a place I wanted to stay overnight, but alas, there is just so much to see and so little time.
Alaska State Ferry: Ketchikan to Juneau
I had a lovely stay in Ketchikan, but it was time for the next leg of my trip, which was taking the Alaska state ferry to Juneau. This trip stopped at several cities before we arrived in Juneau. There was barely time to step off the ship if desired in the cities, except for Sitka, which allowed us about an hour and half in downtown Sitka. [More on that in next blog post.] The ferry route to Juneau was gorgeous, and it went through the amazingly gorgeous and awesome Wrangell Narrows. The ferry is about the biggest ship that can go through the narrows, so that is a bit of a bonus compared to the huge cruise ships.
Totem Bight State Historical Park
I visited Totem Bight State Historical Park in Ketchikan today. It contains numerous totem poles, some of which are reproductions and some of which are inspired by older totem poles. Because they are newer, they are still colorful, which helps in understand both their meaning and also what the original poles looked like. There is also a gorgeous clan house, which you can go in. The park also features a short but nice walk through the temperature rainforest and also a beach.
Ketchikan hiking
Ketchikan has lots of hiking trails, and many of them are close to the town. We went hiking on the Rainbird trail this afternoon. Ketchikan is located in a temperate rainforest, and the Rainbird trail goes through that temperate rainforest ecosystem right to the side of the town. The trail is located in an area that was last logged over 50 years ago, so it does not have the old growth trees, but it is pretty none the less. The northern trailhead warns that the trail is not maintained, and they are not kidding. We lost the trail a couple of times. The southern half of the trail is maintained and is much easier to hike.